There’s a distinct geographic magic at work at Dave’s Triple B Restaurant. Maybe it’s the way chef/owner David Raines’ conversation is peppered with plugs of local growers that feed his kitchen and customers. Or, maybe it’s just the address. Because one thing this High Street lunch spot easily does is kick familiar favorites to higher rungs of scrumptious.
The three Bs stand for The Butcher, The Baker, The Barbecue Maker — and Raines is all three. For the restaurant at 970 High St., open since March, that adds up to triple-threat delicious, 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., six days a week.
“I can’t do it all. It all kind of starts with me, but without the people who work here, it would never actually happen,” Raines says. Kitchen colleagues include chef de cuisine Daryl Maloney and Mitch McCormick, who’s sprinkling a custom rub on brisket bound for the smoker when I get a quick peek in the back.
Hungry eyes also take in a towering baker’s rack full of fresh-baked breads: white bread for Texas toast; focaccia for sandwiches, batons and croutons; rye for Reuben and pastrami sandwiches; hamburger buns that are a potato bun/brioche cross. Southern biscuits and cornbread to go with Monday’s red beans and rice are right at hand, too.
Since 2016, Raines’ The Flora Butcher has been major farm-to-table benchmark in the tiny town of nearby Flora, for the Wagyu beef Raines’ dad raises in Louisiana. Wagyu, a Japanese breed, is prized for its tenderness, flavor and feathery marbling. That beef and other local meats, house-made sausages and more now fuel the butcher shop-to-restaurant loop as well.
That’s another triple threat of Dave’s Triple B: culinary know-how from Raines’ international chef career; fresh local sourcing of meats and vegetables; from-scratch cooking to the extreme.
“We make our own stocks, we make everything, because we have the bones,” Raines says. The deep fryers don’t use vegetable oil, but Wagyu fat, ground and rendered to make tallow.
“It’s raising the cows, to making stock, to making pot roast out of it — it’s as scratch as you can get.”
Even comfort food as humble and beloved as biscuits with gravy gets an upgrade. Chopped up ends of Wagyu pastrami and corned beef go into the gravy, boosting the flavor and beefing up the color. Mashed potatoes fluff with new delight under that bold blanket, too, trust me.
The location that was previously home to Chimneyville Smokehouse had a thorough transformation for Dave’s Triple B Restaurant. The addition of an outdoor deck is a nice touch that’ll see some use once the weather cools. White walls and wood rafters signal the casual feel of a barbecue hotspot, without the piggy kitsch. Advertising images from historic Jackson lend a fun local touch. A chalkboard menu holds a tempting sweep from salads, sandwiches and specials to Wagyu burgers, barbecue and blue plates.
Barbecue is the enticing aroma that says hello in the parking lot and yanks me inside. It wafts up again, a welcome delight, when a BBQ Combo slides under my nose. Chicken, pork and beef crowd the plate, on the bone and pulled into a pile with andouille slices along for the fun, plus kimchi from Sweet & Sauer. The barbecued meats are a rich, tasty, tender triumph, and kimchi balances it with spicy tang.
The chicken-fried steak is a gigantic presence on the plate, dwarfing a mound of mashed potatoes and a side of braised collard greens. “Omigosh! Bring me a box now,” diners often say, realizing at the outset they can’t finish it in a single seating.
The Reuben, thick with so-tender slices of corned Wagyu beef, Sweet & Sauer’s sauerkraut, Crechale’s comeback sauce and bookended by grilled house-made rye bread, is what lesser Reubens dream of being when they grow up and get great.
Dave’s Triple B. B there. B hungry. B happy.